Archive for September, 2009

Bedbugs Policy Change in Florida – Department of Business and Professional Regulations

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009

Bedbugs Still a Problem

Florida hotels are changing their inspection policies to actively let inspectors into rooms to search for bedbugs. A new policy by the Department of Business and Professional Regulations, Division of Hotels and Restaurants, which provides for inspections, formal warnings and a prohibition on renting bed bug infested rooms is being instituted.

The state department created its new policy after consulting with the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention and other agencies nationwide according to the Orlando Sentinal.

The old law allowed they could only tell the hotel to remedy the problem because they had no authority to do more.

“Doc”
American Lawn and Tree Arborist

EEK!!! The leaves on my flowering trees have already fallen off!

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

Chronic Apple Scab

Flowering crabs throughout the midwest usually drop their leaves early due to a disease called Venturia inequalis commonly known as chronic apple scab. The disease is most severe when humidity is high and temperatures are moderate during spring and early summer. Host plants include nearly all apple and flowering crab trees as well as others in the “Mallis” family.

Treatment options include:

  • 1) Apply appropriate fungicides as a drench at bud swell, bud elongation and bud break
  • 2) Fertilize the trees in spring or fall
  • 3) Do nothing

If you elect to do (1) the tree should maintain most of its leaves until normal leaf drop in the fall.
If you choose to do (2) the leaves will still drop early but the tree will be better able to cope with the leaf loss.
If you choose to do (3) the tree will likely survive unless it is in poor vigor.

However you choose to deal with the problem, be sure to remove as many dead leaves as possible in the fall because that is where the disease lives in the winter.

“Doc”
American Lawn and Tree Arborist

Can I Grow Palm Trees Where I Live?

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Palms Can Grow in Northern States!

Palms are grown all over the world. Canada serves a Northern reference point and many types of palm trees can grow there. The main factors affecting hardiness are the minimum winter temperature, the number of hours of cold every winter, the amount of heat every summer, and the relative wetness or dryness of the climate. In general, palms are not particularly hardy. Many are actually injured by a single freezing night. Others can withstand zero degrees F for short periods without damage.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has developed a system of cold hardiness zones based on the average annual minimum temperature. The zones that are considered “borderline” are the following:

  • 10 to 15 degrees F = Zone 8a
  • 15 to 20 degrees F = Zone 8b
  • 20 to 25 degrees F = Zone 9a
  • 25 to 30 degrees F = Zone 9b

How do I get a palm established in a “borderline” area?

Most hardy palm growers recommend protecting the palm from the climate for at least the first two years that it is in the ground. The palm should be mulched with a deep layer of fall leaves or other material. The palm can then be wrapped in burlap, bubble plastic, a spun landscape material such as “remay” or “garden blanket”, or even an old sheet or blanket. If you use a non-porous material such as plastic, it is best if air space is left between the palm and the material. This air space may not be needed if you only protect the palm during cold spells. It is best to stay with palms that grow in your zone.

Hardy Palms

The hardiest arborescent (trunking) palm is the Windmill Palm – Trachycarpus fortunei. They are grown as far north as parts of British Columbia in Canada. They have a fuzzy trunk which can grow twenty feet tall. They do not need a hot climate, and seem to thrive in cool, moist weather.

Sabal palmetto (Sabal palm, Cabbage palm) is the state tree of Florida and South Caroline. It has been known to survive between zero and five degrees when well-established . It cannot survive these temperatures on a regular basis, and is probably best rated as a zone 8a. It is a large fan palm which takes many years to form a trunk. It can be found in the wild as far north as Bald Head Island, North
Carolina, near Willmington.

Chamaerops humilis (European fan palm/Mediterranean fan palm) is quite hardy in areas which have a dry climate. It is usually rated as a “zone 8” palm. In areas with wet winter soil (like the eastern U.S. and the Pacific Northwest). It seems to be less hardy. Planting this palm in a well-drained bed (such as a bed prepared for a cactus garden) may help it survive in these areas.

Washingtonia robusta, Washingtonia filifera, and Brahea armata are western desert palms which are fairly hardy in their native environment (zone 8, zone 9a).

Phoenix canariensis is a large date palm which can grow in zone 8b areas.

Problems with Sod WebWorms in Florida Lawns

Monday, September 14th, 2009

Tropical Sod Webworms Attack

Of all the “Lepidoptera” lawn pests in Florida, the tropical sod webworm is the most damaging. It can attack all specie of lawns along the entire gulf coast of the United States. Most damage occurs in fall. Symptoms include browning spots about the size of a quarter. As the infestation worsens, the spots coalesce and become larger. The adult moths cause no damage and can be seen fluttering over the grass as they are disturbed. The problem is the caterpillar or larvae of the moth as they are the ones that do the damage. As always, read the label if you plan to do the treatment yourself. Remember, “the label is the law”.

“Doc”
American Lawn and Tree Arborist

Benefits Of Mulch – Mulch is a Wonderful Thing!

Monday, September 14th, 2009

Trees growing in a natural forest environment have their roots anchored in a rich, well-aerated soil full of essential nutrients. The soil is blanketed by leaves and organic materials that replenish nutrients and provide an optimal environment for root growth and mineral uptake. Urban landscapes, however, are typically a much harsher environment with poor soils, little organic matter, and large fluctuations in temperature and moisture. Applying a 2 – 4 inch layer of organic mulch can mimic a more natural environment and improve plant health.

The root system of a tree is not a mirror image of the top. The roots of most trees can extend out a significant distance from the tree trunk. Although the guideline for many maintenance practices is the drip line – the outermost extension of the canopy – the roots can grow many times that distance. In addition, most of the fine, absorbing roots are located within inches of the soil surface. These roots, which are essential for taking up water and minerals, require oxygen to survive. A thin layer of mulch, applied as broadly as practical, can improve the soil structure, oxygen levels, temperature, and moisture availability where these roots grow.

Benefits Of Mulch

  • Retention of soil moisture
  • Weed and grass control
  • Protection of the trunk and surface roots from mowing equipment
  • Erosion control as mulch breaks the impact of rain
  • Increased soil fertility when organic mulches placed directly over the soil decompose
  • Improved soil structure (better aeration, temperature and moisture conditions)
  • Simplified maintenance
  • Improved appearance
  • Reduced soil cracking that can damage small roots and speed drying
  • Help in preventing soil compaction

For more information visit:  American Lawn and Tree Arborist

Avocado Trees: Beware of the New Laurel Wilt Disease

Friday, September 11th, 2009

Mysterious Red Bays Disease

I was asked by an arborist at Forest Keepers in Milton, Georgia to stop by and see if I could identify the cause of death of all the Red Bays in his area. Upon arrival we searched for three days in an unsuccessful effort to find a live red bay. I was able to find a stain under the cambium tissue of one of the dead trees which suggested a fungus was involved but I was unable to identify it with my limited library. When I returned to Florida I contacted the University of Florida and found the following information.

The disease “Raffaelea lauricola”, commonly called laurel wilt is vectored by a tiny exotic ambrosia beetle (Xyleborus glabratus) which, until now, has been found only in Asia. Apparently it was brought to this country through Savanna, Georgia in a wood product about five years ago. Since then it has moved southward at a rapid pace.

It appears this beetle feeds on any of the laurel family and that includes the avocado! I look forward to providing some fungicide injection treatments in an effort to control this devastating disease.

“Doc”
American Lawn and Tree Arborist

How to Plant a Palm Tree Properly – Planting a Palm Tree

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

Planting a Palm Tree

Planting palm trees is similar, in most ways, to planting other kinds of trees. Nursery-grown palms are generally sold either potted or balled and burlapped. Try to plant your tree shortly after purchase. If there is going to be any lag time between purchase and planting, make sure that the tree’s root ball is kept moist but not soaking. When transporting and handling palm trees, use care. The bark is easily damaged and damaged areas leave the tree vulnerable to insects and fungus. The best time of year to plant is during the warmer months when the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees F. Remember, palms cannot heal wounds in the trunks.

Dig a hole wide enough to fit the root ball with plenty of room to spare. Twice as wide might be a good rule of thumb in many cases. The hole should be just deep enough so that the tree is planted at the depth at which it was grown. Do not plant the tree any deeper as this may deprive the roots of nutrients and water. When the tree has been situated in the hole, backfill with the freshly dug soil.

When the palm tree has been planted, build a soil barrier around the circumference of the hold to form a dam that will hold water. Then lay down a layer of organic mulch round the tree. About three inches deep should do. Keep the mulch from making direct contact with the trunk.

Watering and Tree Care

Frequent watering is crucial for newly-planted palm trees. Daily for about the first two weeks and then tapering off over several months as the tree establishes itself. Use a bubbler or arrange a hose to slow soak the area around the tree. It is important not to allow the soil to dry out as this will severely weaken your new palm.

Palm trees also require periodic fertilizer applications. There are commercial mixes available especially for palms.

For more information visit our Florida Palm Tree Services.

Rid Chinch Bugs from St. Augustine Grass – Florida

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

Lawn Insects in Florida

Chinch bugs are the most important lawn insect pests of St. Augustine grass. Lawn damage most often occurs in very hot dry weather but can occur anytime, usually in the sunniest areas of your grass. There are several home owner products that are labeled for chinch bugs in your lawn. Be careful to follow the label directions so it is safe for you and your St. Augustine lawn. Cinch bug damage is often confused with other lawn diseases.

Be careful with your diagnosis. If you have any further questions, “Ask the Doc”.

Palm Trees – Consider Growth Factors Prior to Purchasing

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009

Question:

Doc,

What type of palm should I choose?

- Frank A.

Doc’s Answer:

In general four factors should be considered when choosing a palm tree for your property. The first factor is the size of the tree at maturity. Remember that the little palm for sale at a local nursery might reach a height of 50 feet or more as an adult tree overpowering the rest of your property, interfering with overhead lines and underground conduits and perhaps, threatening buildings if the tree is planted too nearby. Make sure that the size of your palm at maturity is in keeping with your needs and overall landscape design.

“Doc”
American Lawn and Tree Arborists

Yellow Jacket Season is Approaching

Tuesday, September 8th, 2009

Yellow Jacket Season

According to Howard Russel, Michigan State University Diagnostic Services, late summer is the time when problems with yellow jackets peak.  Late summer is when they rear next year’s queens so they tend to be less tolerant towards those of us that venture too close.  Also, queen rearing requires sugars and not protein (insects they fed on earlier in the year) so they tend to be closer to us with our fruit and soft drinks during this time of year.