Archive for the ‘Tree Care & Prevention’ Category

“Thousand Cankers Disease” – More Bad Bug News for Tree Owners

Friday, November 13th, 2009

“Bad Bugs”

Usually in my reports about “bad bugs” and trees the culprit is some exotic import. Not this time. A tiny native walnut twig beetle found in California, Arizona, and New Mexico known as “Pityophorus juglanois” was first discovered in 1959 as just another bark beetle, has recently been associated with the death of walnut trees all along the west coast as far north as Washington and Oregon, as for east as Idaho and Utah.

The little critter doesn’t do much harm, but it is suspected it carries a new disease coined “thousand cankers disease.” There is concern that the disease itself is exotic and that it may spread east to the white (English) walnut industry (where our edible walnuts are grown) and to the Black walnut trees of the northeast praised for its wood in veneers and furniture. So far No control is known… Stay tuned.

Protect your Evergreens with Anti-desiccants to Prevent Winter Damage

Thursday, November 12th, 2009

Winter is coming along with deer, rabbits and cold winds.

Fall Special:

Let us protect your evergreens with anti-desiccants to prevent winter damage and we will treat your evergreens with deer repellant for FREE!

Limited time offer so order today!

American Lawn and Tree Arborist
800-404-3033

American Elm Tree Injections – Avoid the European Bark Beetle!

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

Do you have a large shade tree in your yard you can’t identify?

Find out if it’s an American Elm. If it is, consider having is injected by an ISA Certified Arborist. There is no silver bullet but several systemic fungicides injected directly into the buttress, area of the root system may keep your tree alive for many a years. Once the tree becomes infected from the European bark beetle, all is lost. Dutch Elms Disease (OPHIOSTOMA or CERATOCYSTIS ulmi) can not be cured.

The loss of a beautiful shade tree can reduce your property values drastically. Large trees are very expensive to remove and nobody wants to see a huge bare spot where a beautiful tree once stood.

Elm Tree Injections

For more information on tree injections call American Lawn and Tree Arborists for a free quote at 800-404-3033.

EEK!!! The leaves on my flowering trees have already fallen off!

Thursday, September 17th, 2009

Chronic Apple Scab

Flowering crabs throughout the midwest usually drop their leaves early due to a disease called Venturia inequalis commonly known as chronic apple scab. The disease is most severe when humidity is high and temperatures are moderate during spring and early summer. Host plants include nearly all apple and flowering crab trees as well as others in the “Mallis” family.

Treatment options include:

  • 1) Apply appropriate fungicides as a drench at bud swell, bud elongation and bud break
  • 2) Fertilize the trees in spring or fall
  • 3) Do nothing

If you elect to do (1) the tree should maintain most of its leaves until normal leaf drop in the fall.
If you choose to do (2) the leaves will still drop early but the tree will be better able to cope with the leaf loss.
If you choose to do (3) the tree will likely survive unless it is in poor vigor.

However you choose to deal with the problem, be sure to remove as many dead leaves as possible in the fall because that is where the disease lives in the winter.

“Doc”
American Lawn and Tree Arborist

Can I Grow Palm Trees Where I Live?

Wednesday, September 16th, 2009

Palms Can Grow in Northern States!

Palms are grown all over the world. Canada serves a Northern reference point and many types of palm trees can grow there. The main factors affecting hardiness are the minimum winter temperature, the number of hours of cold every winter, the amount of heat every summer, and the relative wetness or dryness of the climate. In general, palms are not particularly hardy. Many are actually injured by a single freezing night. Others can withstand zero degrees F for short periods without damage.

The U.S. Department of Agriculture has developed a system of cold hardiness zones based on the average annual minimum temperature. The zones that are considered “borderline” are the following:

  • 10 to 15 degrees F = Zone 8a
  • 15 to 20 degrees F = Zone 8b
  • 20 to 25 degrees F = Zone 9a
  • 25 to 30 degrees F = Zone 9b

How do I get a palm established in a “borderline” area?

Most hardy palm growers recommend protecting the palm from the climate for at least the first two years that it is in the ground. The palm should be mulched with a deep layer of fall leaves or other material. The palm can then be wrapped in burlap, bubble plastic, a spun landscape material such as “remay” or “garden blanket”, or even an old sheet or blanket. If you use a non-porous material such as plastic, it is best if air space is left between the palm and the material. This air space may not be needed if you only protect the palm during cold spells. It is best to stay with palms that grow in your zone.

Hardy Palms

The hardiest arborescent (trunking) palm is the Windmill Palm – Trachycarpus fortunei. They are grown as far north as parts of British Columbia in Canada. They have a fuzzy trunk which can grow twenty feet tall. They do not need a hot climate, and seem to thrive in cool, moist weather.

Sabal palmetto (Sabal palm, Cabbage palm) is the state tree of Florida and South Caroline. It has been known to survive between zero and five degrees when well-established . It cannot survive these temperatures on a regular basis, and is probably best rated as a zone 8a. It is a large fan palm which takes many years to form a trunk. It can be found in the wild as far north as Bald Head Island, North
Carolina, near Willmington.

Chamaerops humilis (European fan palm/Mediterranean fan palm) is quite hardy in areas which have a dry climate. It is usually rated as a “zone 8” palm. In areas with wet winter soil (like the eastern U.S. and the Pacific Northwest). It seems to be less hardy. Planting this palm in a well-drained bed (such as a bed prepared for a cactus garden) may help it survive in these areas.

Washingtonia robusta, Washingtonia filifera, and Brahea armata are western desert palms which are fairly hardy in their native environment (zone 8, zone 9a).

Phoenix canariensis is a large date palm which can grow in zone 8b areas.

Benefits Of Mulch – Mulch is a Wonderful Thing!

Monday, September 14th, 2009

Trees growing in a natural forest environment have their roots anchored in a rich, well-aerated soil full of essential nutrients. The soil is blanketed by leaves and organic materials that replenish nutrients and provide an optimal environment for root growth and mineral uptake. Urban landscapes, however, are typically a much harsher environment with poor soils, little organic matter, and large fluctuations in temperature and moisture. Applying a 2 – 4 inch layer of organic mulch can mimic a more natural environment and improve plant health.

The root system of a tree is not a mirror image of the top. The roots of most trees can extend out a significant distance from the tree trunk. Although the guideline for many maintenance practices is the drip line – the outermost extension of the canopy – the roots can grow many times that distance. In addition, most of the fine, absorbing roots are located within inches of the soil surface. These roots, which are essential for taking up water and minerals, require oxygen to survive. A thin layer of mulch, applied as broadly as practical, can improve the soil structure, oxygen levels, temperature, and moisture availability where these roots grow.

Benefits Of Mulch

  • Retention of soil moisture
  • Weed and grass control
  • Protection of the trunk and surface roots from mowing equipment
  • Erosion control as mulch breaks the impact of rain
  • Increased soil fertility when organic mulches placed directly over the soil decompose
  • Improved soil structure (better aeration, temperature and moisture conditions)
  • Simplified maintenance
  • Improved appearance
  • Reduced soil cracking that can damage small roots and speed drying
  • Help in preventing soil compaction

For more information visit:  American Lawn and Tree Arborist

Avocado Trees: Beware of the New Laurel Wilt Disease

Friday, September 11th, 2009

Mysterious Red Bays Disease

I was asked by an arborist at Forest Keepers in Milton, Georgia to stop by and see if I could identify the cause of death of all the Red Bays in his area. Upon arrival we searched for three days in an unsuccessful effort to find a live red bay. I was able to find a stain under the cambium tissue of one of the dead trees which suggested a fungus was involved but I was unable to identify it with my limited library. When I returned to Florida I contacted the University of Florida and found the following information.

The disease “Raffaelea lauricola”, commonly called laurel wilt is vectored by a tiny exotic ambrosia beetle (Xyleborus glabratus) which, until now, has been found only in Asia. Apparently it was brought to this country through Savanna, Georgia in a wood product about five years ago. Since then it has moved southward at a rapid pace.

It appears this beetle feeds on any of the laurel family and that includes the avocado! I look forward to providing some fungicide injection treatments in an effort to control this devastating disease.

“Doc”
American Lawn and Tree Arborist

How to Plant a Palm Tree Properly – Planting a Palm Tree

Thursday, September 10th, 2009

Planting a Palm Tree

Planting palm trees is similar, in most ways, to planting other kinds of trees. Nursery-grown palms are generally sold either potted or balled and burlapped. Try to plant your tree shortly after purchase. If there is going to be any lag time between purchase and planting, make sure that the tree’s root ball is kept moist but not soaking. When transporting and handling palm trees, use care. The bark is easily damaged and damaged areas leave the tree vulnerable to insects and fungus. The best time of year to plant is during the warmer months when the soil temperature is at least 65 degrees F. Remember, palms cannot heal wounds in the trunks.

Dig a hole wide enough to fit the root ball with plenty of room to spare. Twice as wide might be a good rule of thumb in many cases. The hole should be just deep enough so that the tree is planted at the depth at which it was grown. Do not plant the tree any deeper as this may deprive the roots of nutrients and water. When the tree has been situated in the hole, backfill with the freshly dug soil.

When the palm tree has been planted, build a soil barrier around the circumference of the hold to form a dam that will hold water. Then lay down a layer of organic mulch round the tree. About three inches deep should do. Keep the mulch from making direct contact with the trunk.

Watering and Tree Care

Frequent watering is crucial for newly-planted palm trees. Daily for about the first two weeks and then tapering off over several months as the tree establishes itself. Use a bubbler or arrange a hose to slow soak the area around the tree. It is important not to allow the soil to dry out as this will severely weaken your new palm.

Palm trees also require periodic fertilizer applications. There are commercial mixes available especially for palms.

For more information visit our Florida Palm Tree Services.

Diplodia (Sphaeropsis) Blight – Pine Tree Infections

Thursday, July 23rd, 2009

Pine Tree Disease Prevention

Is your long needle pine declining with individual branches turning reddish brown. If so, your pine is very likely infected with diplodia (Sphaeropsis) blight. You can slow the process by allowing more air movement around the pine. Trimming and destroying infected branches and removing spent pine needles and pine cones will also help the tree as this is where diplodia over-winters. Having the pine foliar bark drenched at bud break and approximately ten (10) days later by a Certified Arborist will also slow the tree’s demise.

Do you have questions about your landscape or other environmental issues? “Ask the Doc”

Stop Rhysosphaera from Attacking Colorado Blue Spruce Trees

Monday, July 13th, 2009

The Rhysosphaera Disease

If you own a Colorado Blue Spruce tree that has purplish brown spruce needles in places, it may have a disease called Rhysosphaera needle cast. To be sure, look at the purplish spruce needles for tiny black dots. These are the fruiting bodies of the Rhysosphaera.

You will need help from a Certified Arborist who will treat the tree early May and three to four weeks later OR every ten to fourteen days through early July if we have a rainy spring. Note: You may have a disease called “Cytospora Canker” which I will discuss in a different report.